There are many ways to create surface designs on fabric, many of which have a long place in our collective history. Batik is one such approach. It’s the art of decorating cloth using wax and dye. Batik is a resist technique, meaning that the wax acts as an impediment to the dye. Wherever the wax is placed, the dye will not go. Once the wax is removed, the fabric’s original color remains.
Batik has been practiced for centuries in many parts of the world, including China, Japan, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Bali. The term—both a noun and a verb—originates from the Javanese word tik, which means “dots.” Created on natural fabrics such as cotton, silk, and linen, this type of art-making has long been found everywhere in markets, particularly in clothing and home goods.
Batik is a special and timeless art form that combines multiple disciplines: drawing, printmaking, and dyeing. Read on to learn more about it.
A Brief Look at the Long History of Batik
Batik-like dyeing is believed to have existed since the 4th century BCE. Elements of the technique were found in Egypt; the ancient Egyptians wrapped mummies in linen soaked in wax and scratched it with a stylus. While this isn’t what we typically think of when we think of batik, the idea of using wax as a resist method has been with us for a long time.
Photo: Unknown author – Marylin M. Rhie, Early Buddhist Art of China an Central Asia. Volume 1 (Handbuch der Orientalistik IV, 12) Leiden, Boston, Köln 1999 via Wikimedia Commons (Public domain)
Early batik (more as we know it today) has been found throughout parts of East Asia, Central Asia, and India, dating back over 2,000 years. It’s unclear if batik developed independently in these places or spread via trade routes. What is known, however, is that the island of Java in Indonesia is a prominent part of the batik tradition.
The exact amount of time the Javanese have been practicing batik is hard to determine, as its tropical climate has made it challenging for pieces to survive. It is theorized that the technique was introduced in the sixth or seventh centuries, while other scholars believe it was the 16th century. Batik was still bustling by the 19th century, however, as textile manufacturers in Holland began to mechanize batik by using copper rollers and resin resist. When the manufacturers brought it to Java, the Javanese artisans were unwilling to buy this fabric. To respond to this existential threat, the Javanese developed copper stamps to apply the hot wax to the fabric. This sped up the process and is an approach still used today.
Batik Techniques
There are two major batik styles. Although they both use wax resist to create surface design, how they achieve it is different.
Batik tulis is known as hand-drawn batik. This is the more intricate and time-consuming of the two types of batik. To do it, a canting (or tjanting) is used to apply hot wax to the fabric. A canting is a pen-like tool that has a small copper vessel and spout attached to a bamboo handle. The copper vessel holds the melted wax while the spout places it on the fabric. Once the design is on the fabric, artisans use a brush to apply the ink to it, similar to a painting.
Batik cap is block-printed batik. Similar to printmaking, this method uses copper stamps to create the designs. A block is dipped into wax and laid on the fabric. When the printing is done, the fabric is dip-dyed. In order to create multiple colors, the fabric might be waxed, de-waxed, and repeated. Batik cap is what you’ll often find in mass-produced fabric, such as what’s used on quilts or silk garments.
How to Create Batik Tulis
Batik tulis, or hand-drawn batik, offers more customization and the ability to create intricate designs. If you were to try batik for yourself, this is likely what you’d do. But settle in—this process, while fun, can easily take all day.
Steps of Batik-Making
- Heat your wax to its melting point. There is specific batik wax available, such as this blend that’s a 75/25 combination of paraffin wax and beeswax. A crock pot is a great option if you’re doing it at home or in a studio setting, as you can keep it warm over low heat.
- Design the pattern or artwork on your fabric. Plan for where you’ll apply the wax.
- With the wax melted, apply it to the fabric. Remember, the spots where you place the wax will resist the dye; the original fabric color will show through. Canting will be the most effective tool, but you can use stiff-bristled brushes, too.
- Place the fabric in your dye bath.
- Repeat the process for layered designs.
- Remove the wax by boiling the fabric in water or using an iron to melt it out of the fabric. It will be challenging to remove all of the wax, but boiling generally does a better job and results in softer fabric. Ironing, in contrast, leaves more of the wax within the fabric fibers for a stiffer fabric. (You might want stiffer fabric—it depends on your end use.) Use a combination of both to remove as much wax as possible.
- You are done! Display your new batik cloth as a wall hanging or use it in crafts like quilting projects.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is batik fabric?
Batik fabric is a type of fabric that has been dyed using a wax resist technique.
What makes batik fabric so special?
The designs on batik fabric were created using wax applied by hand—either with tools called canting or copper stamps.
Where is batik from?
Early batik has been found throughout parts of East Asia, Central Asia, and India, dating back over 2,000 years. It’s unclear if batik developed independently in these places or spread via trade routes.
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