What do you do when your beloved jacket looks a little threadbare? Do you get rid of it and make room for something new? If you’re prone to ditching a garment when it’s well-worn, consider mending it instead. Sashiko stitching, also known as sashiko mending, is a Japanese technique that extends a garment’s life. This time-honored tradition uses the running stitch to reinforce and decorate an item of clothing or piece of fabric. Like kintsugi, it celebrates the history of a garment by not hiding its imperfections but emphasizing how much the piece has been loved. After all, it needs sashiko because you wore it so much!
Sashiko has existed for centuries and remains a popular choice for visible mending on woven fabrics (cotton, linen, etc). And it has another benefit: sustainability. Given the clothing industry’s environmental impact, repairing the things we own is another way to honor the Earth. We’re exercising circular fashion and keeping something out of landfills.
Let’s take a deeper look at the history of sashiko mending, the tools needed, and the basic technique to create. You’ll be sashiko stitching in no time.
Learn how sashiko stitching can give your well-loved clothes a new lease on life.
The History of Sashiko
Sashiko Jacket (Japanese Meiji period, 19th century). Indigo-dyed plain-weave cotton, quilted and embroidered with white cotton thread. (Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Seymour Fund, 1967)
Sashiko originated in Japan centuries ago. It was developed during the Edo period (1603–1868), and its core function has remained the same: repair clothing to extend its lifecycle. The practical beginning was born out of necessity. Cotton was uncommon in Japan until well into the 20th century. When a garment began to run thin or develop holes, people—especially those in rural communities—had no choice but to repair it.
Sashiko is one part of repairing an item. The term sashiko is formed from the Japanese verb sasu, which means “to pierce, to stab, to prick.” Sashiko translates into “little stabs.” The other part of the repair is boro (also known as boroboro). Boro translates to “tattered” and refers to patching—joining pieces of fabric to fortify clothing. Sashiko, with its tiny running stitches, is how the patching is secured.
Sashiko began as a practical technique to mend a garment, but the more it was practiced, the decorative aspect of it emerged. Now, people use a variety of geometric patterns to turn otherwise ordinary clothing into wearable works of art.
Tools Needed for Sashiko Stitching
The good news about sashiko is that you don’t need fancy supplies for it. (This isn’t surprising, given its humble history.) If you’ve done hand stitching before, you likely have something on this list that’s already in your craft stash.
Thread
Olympus | $18.50
You can use a variety of threads in sashiko mending. There is, however, a specific type of thread best suited for the technique. Sashiko-specific strands are significantly thicker than sewing thread and twisted to make them stronger—just what you’d want in a thread meant to fortify clothing.
Sashiko thread is available in multiple thicknesses. They are meant for various types of projects and have different aesthetic qualities. If you’re looking to show off your stitching and have the thread very visible, select a thicker skein. For areas that will require a lot of mark-making, try opting for a thinner thread as it will give you more control over the design.
Sashiko thread recommendations: Olympus Sashiko Thread
Aside from sashiko thread, you can use perle cotton, which is similar but not as durable. You can also use embroidery floss. This type of thread has six threads that comprise one strand, so you can easily adjust the thickness of floss. Like perle cotton, it’s not as durable and is better for decorative stitching.
Needle
Lecien Japan | $5.98
Sashiko has a specific type of sewing needle that is longer than your average hand-stitching needle. This is due to the sashiko technique itself. The approach only uses running stitches in a given design, so a longer needle allows you to hold more stitches at once; this makes for faster and more accurate stitching. In addition to length, the eye of a sashiko needle is also larger to accommodate thicker thread.
Needle recommendations: Leichen Japan Sashiko Needles
Thimble
Nippon Chuko | $5.70
When you think of a thimble, you might picture a cup-shaped piece that fits over the tip of your finger. Sashiko thimbles are different; they sit lower on your middle finger to help pad your palm as you work.
Thimble recommendations: Nippon Chuko Adjustable Ring Thimble
Marking tools or patterns
Sashiko patterns are orderly—even when there are arches and curves. The designs comprise straight lines, are proportionate, and generally follow a grid pattern. When you’re beginning sashiko mending, having a pattern will give you a great place to start. Using tailor’s chalk or transfer paper, you can rub or trace the design on fabric.
Once you’re comfortable making your own patterns, you can use a quilter’s ruler or a compass to create your design.
Scissors
Fiskars | $9.38
You don’t have to have anything fancy for snipping thread. Any fabric scissors will do. But if you’re looking for tools that avid hand-stitchers love to use, check our list of the best embroidery scissors.
How to Sashiko Mend
The basics of sashiko are simple: you use the running stitch to create uniform lines of thread. This simplicity makes it an accessible form of mending. Let’s break down the process, as well as some tips and tricks, for stitching.
Begin by identifying the area you want to mend. It’s always better to mend when you first notice wear and tear. Grab your needle and thread when your jeans are looking a little threadbare. That way, you can reinforce the area before it gets too tattered and is harder to repair.
Remember, mending is about repair. Assess the area you’re going to stitch and determine what it will take to fix it. Can you fortify it with stitches? Or do you need to patch it? If you need to patch it, do so before the sashiko.
Transfer or draw your sashiko pattern onto fabric using transfer paper or tailor’s chalk. Once transferred, you’re now ready to start stitching. Begin by measuring the amount of thread for your needle. Opt for a piece of thread on the longer side so you don’t run out as quickly and have fewer knots on the back of your work (and less rubbing against your skin.)
Thread a single strand through the eye of the needle. One side of the needle will hold the long side of your thread while the other will have a short tail (about three inches or so). Once threaded, insert your needle into the fabric. Move your needle in and through the fabric, making sure that the space between each stitch is half the length of a full stitch. Use your thimble to help push it through.
Once you’ve reached the end of the design or thread, pull your fabric—not your needle—to the end of the string. When complete, you’ll see a gap between stitches that is half the length of the stitches themselves.
When you’re done, do this last step. Weave your needle through a few stitches on the backside of the fabric to ensure that everything stays taut and in place. Clip all of your threads. You’re done! All that’s left is to admire your mending.
Additional Resources on Sashiko Stitching and Visible Mending
Want to see a demonstration of sashiko stitching? YouTube is a great resource, and these popular videos show what the technique looks like in practice.
Basics of Sashiko
Repair a Shirt with Simple Running Stitch
Repair Jeans with Sashiko and Whipstitches
Books on Sashiko Stitching, Boroboro, and Visible Mending
Simply Sashiko
Nihon Vogue | $15.80
Make + Mend
Jessica Marquez | $17.66
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you do sashiko stitching?
Sashiko stitching is mending and decorative stitching technique created using the basic running stitch. Using a needle and thread, you make a series of straight lines to create a design.
What is the purpose of sashiko stitching?
The purpose of sashiko stitching is to fortify clothing and other pieces of fabric so that they last longer. If not used in mending, it can be decorative as well.
Do you need special thread for sashiko?
While there is sashiko-specific thread, you can use a variety of non-sashiko floss in this practice. Your results may vary, however, as the thread could be less durable that sashiko thread.
Related Articles:
Kaketsugi: The Japanese Art of Invisible Mending That Makes Clothing Holes Disappear
Try These 6 Simple Hand-Sewing Projects You Can Do Without a Machine
Embroidery Artists Are Using a Needle and Thread to “Paint” Gorgeous Stitched Art
Learn How to Cross-Stitch and Create Your Own Embroidered Pixel Designs